Dressing for Success: The Academic Wardrobe Dilemma

How Attire Reflects Identity and Navigates Professional Norms

Sep 14, 2024

It’s 5:45 AM, and I’m standing in my closet.

As I run my fingers along the row of pressed shirts and neatly hung trousers, contemplating the day ahead, I can’t help but chuckle at the irony. Here I am, a grown man with a law degree and a promising academic career, fretting over what to wear as if it were the first day of school.

Yet, as I reach for my favorite navy blue blazer and begin the ritual of dressing for the day, I’m acutely aware that this daily choice is about far more than patterns and fabrics.

It’s a complex dance of personal identity, social expectation, and self-expression that we, as academics, perform every day when we step into our classrooms and offices.

In this week’s edition of the The Tenure Track Newsletter, we’re diving into the often-overlooked yet deeply significant topic of classroom attire and personal branding in academia.

The Suit and the Scholar: A Personal Journey

Recently, during our law school orientation, I was caught off guard when our Dean singled me out as the “best-dressed professor.”

While the compliment was flattering, it made me pause and reflect on the deeper implications of my sartorial choices. Why do I choose to wear a suit, tie, and pocket square every time I teach?

The reasons, I’ve found, are as layered as the clothes themselves.

Honoring a Legacy and Navigating Expectations

At the heart of my choice lies a deeply personal motivation.

My late father, a lifelong New York City bus driver, took immense pride in his appearance, meticulously ironing his uniform each day. His dedication to presenting his best self, regardless of his job’s perceived social status, left an indelible mark on me.

He taught me that respect, hard work, and integrity are not only defined by what you do, but by how you carry yourself. When I shine my shoes and fasten my cufflinks, I’m not simply preparing for class.

To me, I’m also honoring my dad’s memory and the values he instilled in me—values that remind me to approach every task, big or small, with pride and purpose.

But let’s be honest—there’s more to it than personal homage.

As a Black man in legal academia, I’m acutely aware of the unspoken expectations and judgments that come with my position. When I walked into my first law school classroom as a professor almost ten years ago, one of my students asked me in a whisper, “What do you think our professor will be like?”

Yes, I am younger than many of my colleagues.

However, the reality is that for many of us—women, people of color, LGBTQ+, and younger faculty—our appearance is often scrutinized through a different lens than that of our more “traditional” colleagues.

We must navigate the daily pressures of belonging.

The Complexity of Respectability Politics in Academia

This brings us to a crucial point: the role of respectability politics in our choices of academic attire.

The idea that one must dress and talk in a certain way to be respected in academia is a double-edged sword that disproportionately affects marginalized groups.

For many of us, dressing formally isn’t just a choice; it can feel like a necessity.

It’s a shield against prejudice. It’s a tool to assert our belonging in spaces where we’ve historically been underrepresented. It’s a way to command respect and signal our commitment to the roles we occupy.

But this reality also raises uncomfortable questions:

Reinforcing Biases: By conforming to traditional standards of “professional” attire, are we inadvertently reinforcing the very biases we’re trying to overcome?
Authenticity vs. Acceptance: How do we balance being true to ourselves with the need to be taken seriously in our fields?
Unequal Burdens: Do these unspoken dress codes place an unfair burden on women, faculty of color, and younger academics who may feel pressured to “prove” their professionalism?
Cultural Expression: How do we make space for diverse forms of professional dress that honor various cultural traditions?
Evolving Standards: As we push for more inclusive academic environments, how can we challenge and expand the definition of “professional” attire?

Many scholars have explored these topics in depth, including how race affects our perceptions of professionalism and how racial biases can influence people’s choices in hairstyling.

Navigating Personal Choice and Systemic Expectations

My choice to wear a suit is both a personal preference and a response to these complex dynamics.

First and foremost, I love men’s fashion and often geek out about the technicalities of modern suiting. But it’s also a way of honoring my father’s legacy, asserting my place in the academy, and setting a tone of seriousness and professionalism for my classes.

I’m increasingly aware that this choice exists within a broader context of systemic expectations and biases.

For some of my colleagues, rejecting traditional academic attire is a form of resistance against these expectations. They argue that a more casual or personalized style creates a more approachable atmosphere and challenges the notion that intellect and ability are tied to appearance. I admire that approach.

Others find empowerment in reclaiming formal attire, seeing it as a way to command the respect they deserve while challenging stereotypes about who “belongs” in academia.

I respect that choice as well.

Finding Your Authentic Academic Self

So, where does this leave us?

Navigating personal choice, professional expectations, and systemic biases in academic attire requires both introspection and a willingness to challenge the status quo.

Here are some actionable steps to help you find your authentic academic self:

Reflect on Your Values: Take time this week to assess your own values and goals. Write down what you want your attire to communicate about you. Does your current wardrobe align with your vision of yourself as an educator? If not, consider how you can adjust it to reflect your values better.
Consider Your Context: Next time you’re preparing for class or a professional event, take stock of your institution, field, and student body. Ask yourself: What are the unspoken dress codes in my environment? Where is there flexibility, and how can I challenge or adapt these expectations to reflect my authentic self?
Challenge Assumptions: Start small by questioning one assumption you or your colleagues have about “appropriate” academic dress. For example, can you find a moment this semester to opt for a piece of clothing that feels authentic to you but might challenge traditional norms? Keep notes on how it affects your interactions and perceptions.
Support Diversity: In your next faculty meeting or informal conversation, advocate for broader acceptance of diverse forms of dress. Suggest opening a discussion about how the institution can support attire that honors cultural traditions and personal expression.
Lead by Example: Whatever you choose—whether formal, casual, or culturally expressive—make it intentional. Think about how your students and colleagues perceive you. Are you fostering an inclusive atmosphere? If you feel comfortable, share the reasoning behind your choices with your students to model intentional decision-making.

By taking these steps, you can start crafting a professional presence that’s not only aligned with your authentic self but also one that pushes academic environments toward more inclusive standards.

Looking Ahead: Beyond the Wardrobe

As we continue to grapple with these issues, it’s clear that the conversation about academic attire is part of a larger dialogue about identity, inclusion, and the changing face of academia.

Next week, we’ll expand on this theme by exploring how to establish a positive academic identity that goes beyond appearance, focusing on communication styles, mentorship approaches, and building a meaningful professional presence.

This is a big topic that we will unravel little by little over the course of the academic year. Subscribe below so you can be a part of this journey.

Dressing for Your Authentic Success

Whether you choose a tailored suit, smart casual attire, or clothing that honors your cultural heritage, the most important factor is that your choices align with your authentic self and professional goals.

Your attire is a form of self-expression and non-verbal communication—make sure it’s saying what you want it to say, and be prepared to challenge systems that unfairly judge based on appearance.

I encourage you to reflect on your own sartorial choices and the messages they convey. Share your thoughts and experiences with colleagues.

And remember, while appearance plays a role in our professional lives, it’s the substance of our work and character that truly defines our impact as educators.

Until next week, may your lectures be engaging, your research be groundbreaking, and your professional style remain true to who you are.

Becoming Full,

Your Turn! What are your thoughts on classroom attire, respectability politics, and personal branding in academia? Share your experiences or questions in the comments below or reach out directly. Let’s continue this important conversation!